What were the most challenging aspects writing the new Occy biography?

I guess the most challenging aspect was wanting to do the story justice. I think Occy is surfing’s greatest story, and certainly one that the surfing world has been waiting to hear, or read, and it felt like a huge responsibility to get it right and live up to people’s expectations. It was sometimes challenging just to get enough time with him, because even though he is retired he is still a very busy guy in great demand from lots of quarters. I worked hard trying to create the right environment and circumstances for good, natural, unforced story telling, so to that end I travelled with him to Hawaii for the Pipeline Masters, his farewell event last December, and to Fiji when he received a wildcard invitation to the Globe Pro in May this year, down to Cronulla for a 30th anniversary of the Cronulla Boardriders Club, where a great cast of all his old friends were gathered, trips down the coast just to surf, hang out and get comfortable with each other. It was also tough sometimes trying to jog his memory, particularly for dates and that sort of fine detail. I realised early on he responded well to visual prompts, so we watched just about every surf movie he ever appeared in, and I had every heat draw from every pro-contest he entered printed out so he could physically hold them in his hands and relive the events. These prompts worked really well to plunge us right back into a particular time and place.

Were there any ‘no go’ questions for Occy, or was he happy to discuss any part of his life?

I think Mark was really candid about a lot of sensitive areas of his life. We discussed everything really openly and frankly between us. Early on he did make it clear that he was concerned that one day his own kids, and a lot of his younger fans, would read the book and he didn’t want to glorify any of the drug stories from his past. That stuff is still in there but he didn’t really want to go into forensic detail, and I was happy to respect that. We didn’t want the sensationalism of the drug aspect to overshadow other aspects of his life, because that was never what he was really about. I think the candour with which he discussed his mental health at different times, his battle with depression, were more important and more central to the story, and inspiring for anyone who has gone through similar battles.

How was writing this book different to writing Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew’s bio Bustin’ Down the Door?

Rabbit is more of a natural raconteur who loves holding court and also enjoys writing himself, so he was more of an active participant in telling his story. Occy probably needed more careful handling to get the best out of him, like the prompts mentioned above. He is also a really sensitive, emotional person who requires the right mood and atmosphere to really open up so that was important to recognise and try and create those circumstances.

As co-author did you get to go surfing with Occy?

Yeah, we surfed together quite a bit, here on the Gold Coast, Hawaii, Fiji, down around Yamba, and that always felt like a really great opportunity just to observe him in the water and also just create a nice bond and rapport between us. Driving down the coast to go surfing was always a great opportunity for relaxed story telling. It is remarkable to see him surfing the way he still does at 42, with so much power and enthusiasm.

Who do you feel will be most interested in reading Occy?

As I say, the surfing world has been waiting to read Occy’s story for a while and they will devour it. But as I say in the introduction, it’s a story for anyone who needs reminding about ‘the power of pursuing one’s bliss, the therapeutic properties of a good lie-down, and the importance of never ever giving up’. His is the classic comeback tale, probably the greatest comeback in the history of international sport. I’ve described it to people as ‘Shine on waves’, like the David Helfgott story transposed to surfing, the way a great natural gift can endure all sorts of adversity and how inspired people are to see that talent come through.

What are you working on next?

I’ve just finished writing a film treatment based on the book for Mushroom pictures, as they’ve optioned the book, so now it’s a matter of developing a script and finding the right person to play Occy. It would be a fantastic role for the right actor to really get into his character and perfect all his little quirks and mannerisms. Occy has a great natural comic ability and there is the opportunity there for the right actor to really nail it and bring him to life. I’ve also got the great unfinished novel in progress, which I’m considering bringing out as an e-novel and/or podcast to reach the kind of audience who read surfing magazines but perhaps not a lot else. (See review, page 38.)

Tags: mark occhilupo, tim baker